MDF and plywood are among the most popular materials in laser cutting: affordable, versatile, and widely used for signage, model making, light furniture, decorative pieces, packaging, and crafts.
However, beginners quickly discover challenges: the edges burn, smoke stains appear, layers separate, or the sheet won’t cut through even at high power. These issues are common — and fully manageable.
This guide gives clear 3–10 mm cutting settings for 60–150 W CO₂ lasers, plus airflow recommendations, troubleshooting, and edge finishing. Use it as a practical reference for MDF & plywood projects.
Quick Takeaways
- MDF & plywood (3–10 mm) are easy to cut with CO₂ lasers
- The key to clean edges → speed × airflow × lens
- Best lens → 50 mm for ≤5 mm; 63.5 mm for ≥8 mm
- Many issues (burning / smoke) come from airflow
- Plywood quality varies more due to glue layers
Material Basics (Why MDF ≠ Plywood)
MDF is made from fine wood fibers + resin → density is uniform → smoother cut but burns easily.
Plywood is multi-layered → wood + glue → uneven density → more variation, sometimes edge flare or delamination.
| Material | Structure | Cut Quality | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| MDF | Wood fiber + resin | Smooth but burns | Uniform density |
| Plywood | Layered wood + glue | Varies by glue | Prone to flare |
Recommended Cutting Settings (3 / 5 / 10 mm)
These settings are extracted from real machine Gweike M Series data (60–150 W CO₂). Use them as baseline. Tune ±20% depending on glue, resin, airflow, and lens.
| Thickness | Power | Best Speed | High Speed | Pass |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 mm | 60W | ~7–12 mm/s | 12–15 mm/s | 1 |
| 3 mm | 100W | ~12–20 mm/s | 20–25 mm/s | 1 |
| 5 mm | 60W | ~3.5–5 mm/s | 7–10 mm/s | 1 |
| 5 mm | 100W | ~10–15 mm/s | 15–18 mm/s | 1 |
| 10 mm | 80–100W | ~3–7 mm/s | — | 1–2 |
| 10 mm | 130–150W | ~6–12 mm/s | — | 1 |
Lens Selection
| Thickness | Lens | Why |
|---|---|---|
| ≤5 mm | 50 mm | Sharper, narrow kerf |
| ≥8 mm | 63.5 mm | Deeper focal range; smoother cut |
Airflow Recommendations
Airflow matters as much as power.
- Use medium pressure
- Side-blowing helps disperse smoke
- Keep bottom airflow open
- Avoid over-air → more burning
Techniques for Clean Edges
- Use medium air pressure
- Maintain good exhaust
- Increase speed to reduce charring
- Slightly defocus for smoother cuts (optional)
- Elevate the sheet for better underflow
- Mask the surface to reduce stain
MDF vs Plywood — Which Cuts Cleaner?
| Category | MDF | Plywood |
|---|---|---|
| Density | Uniform | Layered |
| Cutting predictability | High | Medium |
| Edge burn | More | Less (quality-dependent) |
| Odor | Strong | Medium |
| Recommended thickness | ≤10 mm | ≤8 mm |
Troubleshooting Guide
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Burned edge | Speed too low | Increase speed |
| Heavy smoke | Poor airflow | Add side air / elevate material |
| Not cutting through | Focus off / too fast | Re-focus / slow slightly |
| Delamination (plywood) | Low-quality glue | Use better plywood |
| Dark sticky edge | Resin buildup | Sanding + alcohol wipe |
Edge Finishing (Clean-up)
- Light sanding (220–400 grit)
- Denatured alcohol wipe
- Mineral oil finish
- Masking film during cut
- Edge sealing for furniture
Safety
- MDF → formaldehyde VOC
- Use air purifier + exhaust
- Never leave unattended
- Clean honeycomb bed regularly
FAQ
Q: Can 60W cut 10 mm MDF?
Yes — slowly, often 1–2 passes. Higher power recommended.
Q: Why are edges yellow/burned?
Speed is too low or airflow too strong; increase speed.
Q: MDF or plywood — which cuts better?
MDF is more predictable but burns more; plywood varies.
Q: Should I sand the edges?
Yes — quicker cleanup and better finish.
Conclusion
MDF & plywood are beginner-friendly materials for CO₂ laser users. With the right combination of speed, airflow, lens, and finishing, you can consistently achieve clean cuts across 3–10 mm thickness.
Use the tables above to begin — then fine-tune for your project and material brand.