60–100W Acrylic Laser Cutting Settings

Cutting acrylic on a CO₂ laser is simple in theory — but getting a clean, transparent edge depends on the right balance of power + speed + air assist + lens.

Quick answer (most common CO2 acrylic cutting settings):
✅ Use cast acrylic for the clearest edges
✅ Start with the Best Speed values below, then tune ±20% for your airflow and material batch
✅ For 10mm acrylic, results improve significantly with ≥80W and a 63.5mm lens
✅ White/frosty edges usually mean air too strong or power too low; yellow/burning usually means speed too low

This guide provides real-world settings for 60–100 W CO₂ lasers (GWEIKE M-Series / Cloud compatible), covering the most commonly searched thicknesses: 3 mm / 5 mm / 10 mm.

Test conditions (how these CO2 acrylic cutting settings were validated):
• Material: cast acrylic (clear) as the baseline
• Power reference: tested around ~90% power for stable cutting
• Goal: clean, transparent cut edge (not “fastest possible” cutting)
• Airflow principle: push smoke away without turning the edge white (see Airflow section)

Quick Settings — 3/5/10 mm Acrylic (CO2 Laser Speed & Power)

Start with the Best Speed setting for cleaner, clearer edges. Adjust ±20% based on machine, material quality, and airflow. For cleaner edges on thicker acrylic, proper air pressure matters a lot. If you’re not sure how much air to use, refer to this guide on air assist for acrylic laser cutting (pressure & setup).

Thickness Laser Power Best Speed High Speed Pass
3 mm 60W 10–15 mm/s 15–20 mm/s 1
3 mm 100W 25 mm/s 30 mm/s 1
5 mm 60W 5–7 mm/s 7–10 mm/s 1–2
5 mm 100W 10–15 mm/s 15–20 mm/s 1
10 mm 60W 1–2 mm/s 2–3 mm/s 2
10 mm 100W 3–6 mm/s 6–8 mm/s 1
Pro Tip: 10 mm acrylic is much easier with ≥80W. For best clarity, use a 63.5mm CO2 laser lens for thicker acrylic.

Cast vs. Extruded Acrylic (Why Your Edge Looks Clear or Frosty)

Type Result
Cast Acrylic Clear / “mirror-like” edge ✅ (recommended)
Extruded Acrylic More frosting / weaker clarity

→ If your goal is a clear edge, cast acrylic is the reliable choice.

Lens Selection for CO2 Acrylic Cutting

Thickness Lens Reason
≤5 mm 50 mm Sharper focus, better detail
5–10 mm 63.5 mm Deeper focal depth, better clarity on thicker acrylic
If you cut 10 mm frequently → 63.5 mm lens = more stable edges. For thicker acrylic, a longer focal length keeps the beam straighter and reduces taper. If you want a deeper comparison between 50 mm, 63.5 mm, and 100 mm lenses, here is a more detailed guide on CO2 laser focus lenses (50/63.5/100mm) for industrial CO₂ cutters.

Air Assist & Airflow Setup (Critical for Clear Acrylic Edges)

Acrylic cutting quality depends heavily on airflow management. The best airflow setup removes smoke from the kerf without blasting the hot edge so aggressively that it turns white.

  • Recommended: side-blowing + bottom ventilation
  • Avoid: strong downward air only → often causes frosting/whitening
✅ Side airflow helps push smoke away from the cut line (better clarity)
✅ Bottom ventilation reduces fire risk and keeps heat from building up under the sheet
Air assist tuning (fast decision logic):
• If the edge is white/frosty → reduce air first, then slightly increase power or speed
• If you see flames/smoke sticking → improve extraction/side airflow before simply increasing downward air
• If the edge is yellow/brown → speed is likely too low (increase speed)

Single-Pass vs. Double-Pass (When 2 Passes Make Sense)

Thickness Recommendation
3 mm Single pass ✅
5 mm Single pass (2-pass optional)
10 mm Single pass preferred (≥80W)

If double-pass is necessary:

  • Second pass → -15% power / +10% speed

CO2 Acrylic Cutting SOP (Quick Workflow)

  1. Use cast acrylic
  2. Choose the lens: 50 mm (≤5 mm) or 63.5 mm (5–10 mm)
  3. Focus: aim near mid-thickness for balanced top/bottom clarity
  4. Enable side airflow + bottom ventilation
  5. Run the Best Speed value from the settings table
  6. Inspect the edge and tune: speed ±20%, power within safe stable range, then airflow

How to Get Clear / Mirror-Like Acrylic Edges on a CO2 Laser

  • Cast acrylic only
  • Side airflow to remove smoke
  • Bottom ventilation to prevent heat buildup
  • Correct focal lens for thickness
  • Single pass when possible
❌ Avoid extruded acrylic if you want a clear edge
❌ Avoid “downward air only” setups that blast the kerf
❌ Avoid overly low speed (heat buildup → yellowing/burning)

Troubleshooting (Most Common CO2 Acrylic Cutting Problems)

Issue Likely Cause Fix
White / frosty edge Air too strong / power too low Reduce air; increase power slightly or increase speed
Yellowing / burning Speed too low (too much heat) Increase speed
Not cutting through Focus off / power too low / dirty optics Re-focus; increase power; clean lens/mirrors
Flaming Poor extraction / smoke staying in kerf Improve side airflow + exhaust; do not leave unattended
Edge rough / tapered Wrong lens for thickness / unstable focus Switch to 63.5 mm for thick acrylic; re-check focus

Safety Tips (Acrylic on CO2 Lasers)

  • Use proper ventilation/extraction
  • Keep bottom airflow open to reduce heat buildup
  • Do not leave cutting unattended

FAQ (CO2 Laser Acrylic Cutting Settings)

Q: What are good CO2 laser acrylic cutting settings for 3mm?
Start with the table above. For 60W, a common baseline is 10–15 mm/s in a single pass (cast acrylic), then tune based on airflow and edge clarity.

Q: Can a 60W CO2 laser cut 10mm acrylic?
Yes — but it’s slower and less forgiving. A typical range is ~1–2 mm/s with 2 passes. For cleaner edges, 80–100W is recommended.

Q: Why is my laser-cut acrylic edge frosty/white?
The most common cause is air assist too strong or power too low for your speed. Reduce air first, then adjust speed/power within a stable range.

Q: What lens is best for cutting 10mm acrylic on a CO2 laser?
A 63.5mm lens is more stable for thick acrylic because it provides deeper focal depth and tends to reduce taper.

Q: Cast or extruded acrylic for laser cutting?
If you want clear edges, choose cast acrylic. Extruded acrylic is more likely to frost. If you also work with signage or layered designs, two-color acrylic can produce stronger contrast. Use these two-color acrylic engraving settings (CO2) as a reference.

Q: Should I use single pass or double pass for acrylic?
Single pass is preferred for clarity and consistency. Use double pass only when you cannot cut through in a stable single pass; for the second pass, try -15% power / +10% speed.

Conclusion

CO2 acrylic cutting results improve when speed, power, lens, and air assist work together. Use the settings table as your baseline, tune airflow to avoid frosty edges, and match lens focal length to thickness. With a stable setup, you can achieve clean, transparent edges on 3–10 mm acrylic with a 60–100 W CO₂ laser.

Also, make sure the acrylic you use is safe for CO₂ lasers. Avoid PVC completely — it releases corrosive gas. Here’s how to identify materials you should never laser cut (like PVC).

Use this cheat-sheet as your baseline → tune airflow → choose the right lens → lock in consistent results.

Recommended Articles

If you want to go beyond basic CO2 laser acrylic cutting settings, these guides will help you dial in engraving quality, understand the cutting process, and optimize airflow for clearer edges.

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